Staff Reports
Designer Joseph Abboud told Cindy Adams in a recent New York Post column that something has gone terribly wrong with men’s fashion — that the city that once set the world’s style now watches men stroll into offices without so much as a decent pair of pants. That exchange is the prompt, and it’s worth taking seriously: this isn’t just about bad outfits, it’s about what happens when culture, commerce and common sense all decide to loosen their ties at the same time.
Why menswear fell off a cliff
The decline in traditional suiting did not start with the pandemic, but COVID-19 sure sped things up. Demand for daily business suits was already slipping and then remote work and canceled events pulled the rug out from under tailors and mall retailers. Big names that once defined American menswear — think large chains and heritage brands — ran into real trouble. The result was bankruptcies and restructurings that left fewer mid-market options for men who still want to dress like grown-ups.
New rules, new clothes
What replaced suits is not always a better look: athleisure, hoodie culture, and “performance” casual wear filled the vacuum. Corporations relaxed dress codes, and many workers got comfortable staying comfortable. Fashion influence also spread beyond Manhattan; trends are now global, online-first, and led by streetwear and direct-to-consumer brands. New York still matters, but the halo of being the sole fashion capital has faded.
Is there a comeback, or just reinvention?
Industry reports say the story is mixed. Return-to-office policies and a rebound in events have helped occasion suiting, and some brands are finding a market for hybrid “dress-meets-sportswear” suits and made-to-measure services. The Business of Fashion/McKinsey analyses show formalwear is no longer a mass-market staple the way it once was, but niche tailoring is alive — high-end bespoke and comfortable, performance suiting can still sell. Translation: suits aren’t dead, they’re choosy buyers now.
So where does that leave us? Joseph Abboud’s gripe — amplified by Cindy Adams — is a useful wake-up call for a city and a culture that too easily confuse comfort with refinement. The fix isn’t a mandate; it’s a market and a mindset. Tailors need customers, retailers need foot traffic, and men need a little pride in how they present themselves. If New York wants to reclaim more of its fashion stature, it will take business savvy and a cultural nudge toward standards that once felt normal. Or enjoy the sweatpants revolution — but don’t act surprised when a lot of things that relied on polish start to wobble along with the trousers.
